A Little Celtic Village in Spain

 

 

In O’Cebreiro are a few pallozas, circular or oval houses made of granite or shale with thatched roofs. These are traditionally found in Britain or France.

Along the Camino, about 1300 meters (4000 feet) above sea level, is a little town that was originally settled by Celts centuries ago. Judi and I reached O’Cebreiro after a day of walking in the rain and wind, tired from carrying our twenty-pound packs up rocky trails, but glad to find shelter in a stone hotel. We treated ourselves to a room with only two beds and with the real luxury of a bathroom just for the two of us.

Outdoors the wind whipped, but inside a small restaurant near our hotel we were snug and warm. The stone walls of the restaurant retained the heat of a large cookstove where a woman stirred a huge pot ofย caldo galego, a traditional soup of potatoes and kale which was delicious with crusty bread.

The local merchants proudly capitalized on the village’s Celtic origins with offerings of artwork and trinkets.

Judi and I easily could imagine what winters at this altitude would have been like for its original inhabitants. They would have lived difficult lives, at best.

 

This morning’s hike down from the village was a long and difficult one, but as always full of sounds, sights, and smells: cows mooing, roosters crowing, and dogs barking in the greenest of patchwork fields, stone chapels with moss-covered walls, cowflaps aplenty under foot, and bone-chilling cold.

In the yard near our albergue is one more example of the Celtic roots of these people: a dolmen, this one is a storage place for grain, not (as the original dolmens were used) a tomb with a large flat stone land on upright ones.

 

Like many peregrinos before us, Judi and I have loved Galicia.

 

7 thoughts on “A Little Celtic Village in Spain”

  1. Your travels continue to amaze me. You are doing such a great job with words and pictures and I would like to thank you for this great opportunity for all of us to be able to follow along with both of you.

  2. I finally got the chance to read up on your entire experience and enjoyed every word and photo. How proud of you gals I am for undertaking such a meaningful adventure that will not leave you where it found you. The sky’s the limit as to where your next adventure will be. I assume you will be flying home soon and I wish you a safe and joyous trip.

  3. Dear Judi and Barb,

    It was such a pleasure to meet you briefly at the Albergue in Astorga-I’ve enjoyed reading your blog. You really bring the Camino to life! Thanks for sharing the address.

    I’m back in London since Saturday and am happy to see that the shin splints and tendinitis are clearing up quickly. Today I get back to writing…which is a challenge as it’s sunny and warmish outside.

    Enjoy the Galician countryside and all your adventures.

    Buen Camino!
    Dave (Rhode Island/London)

  4. Hi Mom and Barb,
    Love the pictures especially the little pig at the end. What unique architecture and the huts seem quite compact and sturdy. The soup of kale and potatoes is making my mouth water right now. Sounds Delicious!!!
    Xoxo

  5. HI Judi, What a wonderful walk you are doing and the number of different things and places is beyond imagination!! Thanks so much for taking the time to describe everything so that all of us can enjoy your trip. It makes it possible for all of us to appreciate and see all the things you are seeing. Look forward to seeing you and hearing more about your trip with your friend.

  6. Hello ladies,
    Wow… your daily adventures are amazing! Thank you for taking the time to blog all your experiences and for sharing your pictures, as well. Your stamina and comittment to your schedule in your walk is mind blowing! Keep on keeping on. ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ˜‰

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